vrijdag 22 maart 2013

Office Life Galley slave with Pink Mug Louis Quail Photography


Office life galley slave with pink mug Louis Quail photography ...

Galeislaaf met roze mok

Door Pieter Groet
Fotograaf Louis Quail laat zien hoe de moderne arbeider zijn tijd anoniem achter een scherm doorbrengt. En af en toe in verzet komt.
Kantoorleven
Louis Quail moet wel een fotograaf zijn met een boodschap. Zijn reeks over het kantoorleven oogt als een aanklacht tegen de wereldwijde gelijkschakeling van de witteboordenarbeider. Of je nu in Londen, Berlijn, Dubai of Pnom-Penh leeft, in het moderne tijdperk zijn werknemers verworden tot digitale galeislaven. Ze brengen het grootste deel van hun wakende leven door voor hun schermen in de kleinst denkbare, anonieme ruimten, de hand vastgeketend aan de muis. Sommigen zijn letterlijk uitgeput, anderen zijn dat stadium nabij, getuige hun hologige blikken. Je ziet de zwepen niet, maar vermoedt ze wel. Net als de voortdurende onzekerheid: elk moment kan de manager in het kader van de foto stappen om de hand ritueel op de schouder te leggen als voorbode van de mededeling dat het over en uit is. Herstructureren, contract niet verlengd, downsizen, outsourcen, nog flexibeler werken, targets niet gehaald: er kunnen zoveel redenen zijn om – spijtig, spijtig, spijtig – ‘afscheid van elkaar te nemen’.

Geen porno kijken
Tijd voor een disclaimer: ik werk op een kantoor. Vroeger kwam ik nog wel eens buiten, maar nu breng ik het grootste deel van mijn werkzame bestaan door op de burelen van een weekblad. Ik weet wat het is. Ik ben ook een leidinggevende. En in die hoedanigheid heb ik, daartoe aangespoord door mijn assistente, onlangs de werknemers per mail een memo gestuurd om ze ertoe te bewegen hun rommel op te ruimen. Denk daarbij aan torenhoge stapels papier, half leeggedronken bekers koffie (kweekbodem voor interessante schimmels), resten van verjaardagtraktaties van weken geleden en allerlei andere ongerechtigheden die het functieprofiel van de schoonmaker verre overstijgen. Mijn assistente hoopt dat ze mijn memo serieus nemen, maar zij en ik weten beter. In het laatste verslag van mijn ‘beoordeel & ontwikkelingsgesprek’ stelt mijn leidinggevende (geen baas zonder een baas) dat ik soms te begripvol ben. Ik heb hem daarover de huid vol gescholden, toen hij zelf even niet op zijn kamer was.

Maar het is waar, zeker voor rommel kan ik begrip opbrengen. Ik zie het als een kleine, welkome daad van verzet tegen de kantoordwang. Vandaar dat echte leidinggevenden het ook niet tolereren. Veel bedrijven kennen zelfs een clean desk policy (waarom in het Nederlands als het ook in het Engels kan?). Aan het einde van de werkdag moet het bureaublad geheel schoon worden opgeleverd op straffe van disciplinaire maatregelen. Dat is ook veel flexer: elke werkplek en eigenlijk ook iedere werknemer is inwisselbaar.

Even populair is de transparante kantoorinrichting. Als er dan al werkruimtes van elkaar gescheiden moeten worden, gebeurt dat met wanden van doorzichtig glas. Het straalt een moderne boodschap uit: hier hebben wij niets voor elkaar te verbergen. Maar het betekent natuurlijk: we houden je in de gaten – niet uit het raam staren, geen porno kijken, geen samenzweerderig onderonsjes.

Slechtnieuwsgesprek
In een vorige baan belandde ik kortstondig in zo’n glazen werkpaleis. Elke hogergeplaatste vis had zijn eigen transparante en cleane kom. De verlichting was bijzonder; als je je een tijd niet verroerde, gingen de lampen uit. Het was dus zaak net voldoende in beweging te blijven. Terwijl ik op mijn eerste werkdag wachtte op mijn computeraansluiting, werd mijn aandacht getrokken door een scène in een naburige vissenkom. Een leidinggevende ontving een werknemer in zijn lege kantoor. Op een gegeven moment stond hij op, haalde een sleuteltje uit zijn broekzak, opende de enige kast, diepte daar een kartonnen doos met tissues uit op en plaatste die op het smetteloze tafelblad voor de werknemer. Ik was getuige van een slechtnieuwsgesprek. Ik was zo verbijsterd dat ik vergat te bewegen tot het doven van het licht me eraan herinnerde dat ik dat wel moest doen om niet ook een doos tissues voor mijn neus te krijgen. Later moest deze leidinggevende zelf ook vertrekken. Hij had weinig tijd nodig om zijn bureau op te ruimen.

Theezakje
Op de foto’s van Louis Quail zie je gradaties in het verzet. Een werker gaat schuil achter stapels papier, alsof hij heel veel te doen heeft, terwijl hij gewoon afzondering zoekt. Op een architectenbureau in China werken ze tot ze er bijna dood bij neer vallen, maar daar hebben ze dan wel een vrolijk kampeerstoeltje om op uit te puffen. Een vrouw in Londen heeft iets met het roze verzet: trui, mok, pen. En op het kastje heeft zij roze knuffels gezet. Een man is even uniform als zijn pc, maar met zijn knalblauwe sokken laat hij nog net zien dat hij ook een mens is. Anderen lijken nog niet zo goed te durven: ze houden het op een ‘leuke’ mok en een paar foto’s van verwanten. De man met de blauwe das, het theezakje en de pen als roerstok is nog lang niet toe aan verzet.

Het meest vrijgevochten is de vrouw in Berlijn. Zij zit niet op een stoel maar op een oranje bal (actief zitten is goed voor de rug, adviseerde de fysiotherapeut). Er staan planten, er wacht fruit en er is een luchtverkoeler. Alles wijst erop dat zij haar identiteit met succes weet te behouden. De stagiaires in Pnom-Penh kunnen nog veel van haar leren. Om te overleven.
23-03-2013



The Office Life, see also :

So you'd like to... 

the Extended List of Company Photobooks by Mirelle Thijsen


Tunbjork Lars - Office door Lars Tunbjork 



Bureaucratics door Jan Banning 


dinsdag 19 maart 2013

Geigy heute Graphic Design Karl Gerstner Bedrijfsboek Company Book Photography



Geigy heute


von Johann Rudolf GeigyMarkus Kutter
Verlag: Birkhäuser in Komm.
Unbekannter Einband 288 Seiten
Erscheinungs datum: 1958


In its heyday in the 1960s, Basel-based company Geigy (now part of Novartis, one of the world’s biggest pharmaceutical multinational) was not just at the forefront of drugs research – it was also one of the leading proponents of the International Typographic Style, Switzerland’s influential post-war graphic design movement (recently celebrated in an exhibition, entitled Types We Can Make by Lausanne design school ECAL at the MIT Museum).
With their asymmetrical designs, sans-serif typography and block colours, the brand’s Swiss Style advertising and packaging have inspired generations of designers. Now a new exhibition, ‘Good Design, Good Business – Graphic Design and Advertising by Geigy 1940-1970’, is opening in Le Lieu du Design, in Paris’ 12ème arrondissement. Curated by Andres Janser of Zurich’s Museum of Design, it explores Geigy’s innovative brand identity with the help of over 400 objects – including posters, leaflets, promotional gifts and postcards.
‘The design studio at Geigy was crucial for the development and, subsequently, for the international reception of Swiss Style in graphic design,’ explains Janser. ‘Geigy’s typography was as playful as it was controlled, and its design department was known for its use of scarce but strong visual elements, as well as bold colours – unsurprisingly, given that colours, in the form of fabric dyes, were some of Geigy’s most important products.’ Geigy’s packaging, produced in the late 1950s, also broke new ground: ‘It promoted the company brand instead of the product brand, which was a revolutionary step at the time.’
In the 1960s, the chemical company had over 150 employees working solely on the firm’s advertising campaigns, packaging and exhibition stands. Its large design team, which included modernist pioneers such as Karl Gerstner and Herbert Leupin, worked in collaboration with Armin Hofmann’s renowned Allgemeine Gewerbeschule school in Basel. It became a real launch pad for many talented local creatives, including Fred Troller, who worked in Geigy’s New York bureau and went on to design posters for Exxon and American Airlines.
‘Geigy’s design team wanted to avoid a too narrow idea of style, and so focused on the idea of “corporate diversity” as the basic principle of the brand’s corporate identity,’ says Janser. And this is evident in the exhibition’s varied displays, which include Gerstner’s Geigy Heute, a book featuring infographics, bold colours and unjustified text (hardly known-of at the time); Victor Vasarely’s Mitin poster (1947) with colourful tartan and typography; and Max Schmid’s packaging for the Pertofran antidepressant (1962), with a black and white ball-and-chain design that the user had to break to open the box.

Michael Stoll has gathered together the largest European collection of 20th century infographics. He deplores the lack of precision in contemporary work.
Benjamin Bollmann
March 15, 2012

The old statistical atlases, military manuals and user’s guides, with their cloth covers and yellowed pages, emit a distinctive musty smell, bringing to mind the atmosphere of a big library. Yet venturing into these works, the reader discovers an astonishing sight: pages of maps, schematic drawings, and diagrams in vivid color, offering a unique overview of infographics production since the turn of the 20th century.

Michael Stoll, professor of media theory and infographics at the University of Augsburg in Germany, built his collection from pieces found on the Internet and flea markets. He has collected nearly five hundred works, making him one of the foremost infographics collectors in the world, alongside Americans Richard Saul Wurman, founder of the TED conference, and David Rumsey, an expert in geographical maps. Stoll is former president of the jury of Malofiej, the primary international infographics competition, and a consultant with major media groups.

How do you explain the growing presence of infographics in the media?
In our culture, the social status of a person depends on the depth and breadth of his or her knowledge. Someone who develops a quick method for learning things will have a better chance of success. Infographics are a quick and easy way to transmit knowledge, which is what the media is promising to deliver. A diagram placed on a front page sends a strong signal to clients, showing its intention to explain the world in detail.
But there aren’t any newspapers putting infographics on the front page.
Well, that’s why the media is having such a hard time.
In what other areas will infographics still continue to develop?
The biggest potential is in specialized publications, textbooks – an often underestimated market – and in brochures and websites presenting political and democratic issues. Another area is in change management in companies, where infographics can be an ideal internal communications tool. Today, companies must constantly reinvent themselves and adapt to market realities. To succeed at this, they must keep their employees informed. Firms like Sypartners in New York specialize in this area, and they primarily use visual methods.
Today we’re seeing lots of infographics that visualize enormous data sets. The result is often visually impressive, but difficult, if not impossible, to understand.
Data visualization is in an experimental phase. The current situation can be compared with graphic design in the 1980s, with the spread of computers and the first desktop publishing softwares. At the time, everyone was doing graphic design without necessarily knowing the basic principles. In data visualization, we’re seeing a similar phenomenon, with the advent of new softwares and dedicated computer languages.
Raw visualization – without much pre-selection – is dangerous in the sense that it gives more visual weight to large quantities than it does to small ones. Yet the information with the greatest absolute value is not necessarily the most interesting or that which should be emphasized. Good journalists know this well: the best stories to tell are not found on main street but in the back alleys.
What lessons can we learn from your collection?
First, that the history of infographics is much older than one might think. This discipline wasn’t born with the advent of computers. It also wasn’t invented by the newspaper USA Today in the 1980s and 1990s, like some people claim. Infographics began to play a role as soon as printing presses were used to print books. Its evolution is rich and varied.
What always fascinates me is the care and exactitude with which graphic designers worked back then, in spite of a lack of appropriate technologies. Producing those graphics involved a considerable amount of work that had to be done by hand, preceded by a painstaking preparatory phase. That resulted in a high degree of precision, which we no longer find in contemporary work – something I find disappointing.
What do you mean by precision?
Precision in infographics involves three factors: the source of the data, their analysis, and their visual representation. The source must be reliable and the data correctly processed. The choice of diagram and the way in which it’s used must follow clear rules that are anything but random. Typically, some graphic designers go wrong when they use circles to visualize and compare numbers. They make the radii of the circles correspond to quantities, rather than the surfaces, which they should do in order to respect visual proportions.
And don’t forget that the reader cannot verify the accuracy of the data. On the other hand, the reader can quickly judge the precision of the visual representation, which itself reflects the overall quality of the infographic.
Do you know the ideal way to create an infographic?
In the media, management plays a key role. Infographists must be included as full members of the editorial staff, at the same level as journalists. An infographist is just a visual journalist. But the media often look at infographists as service providers, upon whom the editors can call when they need a graphic. This model can’t work, because the infographists should handle the entire process, from choice of subject matter to the graphic representation, and including the research and analysis of data.
Isn’t this a bit idealistic? Few people have expertise that is this broad.
It’s difficult. The reason is simple: infographics is not yet considered as a discipline in itself. The very first academic programs appeared in the 1990s. Today there are still only about ten universities in the world that offer an exhaustive curriculum in this field.
What about a closer collaboration between journalists and infographists?
This configuration could work, but is complicated to put into practice. The issue isn’t just whether the two will work well together. A trained infographist can also recognize subjects that are better suited to a graphic, where a traditional journalist doesn’t see them at all. These are primarily abstract subjects that don’t necessarily involve visualizing numbers, but offer large explanatory potential, such as a cross-section view through a building. Some journalists don’t even know how to evaluate the quality of graphics in their own publications. They’re much better at judging photos, whereas in principle they should be able to judge with the same rigor in both cases.
Did the famous “Swiss style” graphics developed in Switzerland in the 1950s have an influence on infographics?
There are many historical infographics produced in the Swiss tradition. I’m thinking for example of a brochure designed by Karl Gerstner in 1958 on the activities of the chemical company Geigy. It was a difficult piece to find and one of the most valuable that I possess. In it, one sees above all a concern with clarity: the shapes and colors are reduced to bare essentials; the design doesn’t interfere with the content, in fact, just the opposite. Although this style has been perpetuated up until now in graphic design, it was quickly lost in infographics. Nonetheless, its principles were completely in line with the needs of this kind of representation.
Diagrams whose shapes and colors are reduced to the essential

Documentaire 28: Bedrijfsboek in beeldRens Holslag en Jaap van Triest 
Show, don’t tell’  is learned by any commercial writer. The Lecturis Documentary aims to show with examples that this decree is also a recommendation for prefering photographs above texts.
This publication contains a personal collection which visually supports ​​a categorical treatment of business books and which shows the special role of photography in this book genre.
  • Author(s):Rens Holslag en Jaap van Triest
  • Pages:48
  • Size:210 x 297 mm
  • Edition:gehecht
  • ISBN:9789070108632
  • Year:2011
  • Design:Jaap van Triest









Geigy heute Graphic Design Karl Gerstner Bedrijfsboek Company Book Photography



Geigy heute


von Johann Rudolf GeigyMarkus Kutter
Verlag: Birkhäuser in Komm.
Unbekannter Einband 288 Seiten
Erscheinungs datum: 1958


In its heyday in the 1960s, Basel-based company Geigy (now part of Novartis, one of the world’s biggest pharmaceutical multinational) was not just at the forefront of drugs research – it was also one of the leading proponents of the International Typographic Style, Switzerland’s influential post-war graphic design movement (recently celebrated in an exhibition, entitled Types We Can Make by Lausanne design school ECAL at the MIT Museum).
With their asymmetrical designs, sans-serif typography and block colours, the brand’s Swiss Style advertising and packaging have inspired generations of designers. Now a new exhibition, ‘Good Design, Good Business – Graphic Design and Advertising by Geigy 1940-1970’, is opening in Le Lieu du Design, in Paris’ 12ème arrondissement. Curated by Andres Janser of Zurich’s Museum of Design, it explores Geigy’s innovative brand identity with the help of over 400 objects – including posters, leaflets, promotional gifts and postcards.
‘The design studio at Geigy was crucial for the development and, subsequently, for the international reception of Swiss Style in graphic design,’ explains Janser. ‘Geigy’s typography was as playful as it was controlled, and its design department was known for its use of scarce but strong visual elements, as well as bold colours – unsurprisingly, given that colours, in the form of fabric dyes, were some of Geigy’s most important products.’ Geigy’s packaging, produced in the late 1950s, also broke new ground: ‘It promoted the company brand instead of the product brand, which was a revolutionary step at the time.’
In the 1960s, the chemical company had over 150 employees working solely on the firm’s advertising campaigns, packaging and exhibition stands. Its large design team, which included modernist pioneers such as Karl Gerstner and Herbert Leupin, worked in collaboration with Armin Hofmann’s renowned Allgemeine Gewerbeschule school in Basel. It became a real launch pad for many talented local creatives, including Fred Troller, who worked in Geigy’s New York bureau and went on to design posters for Exxon and American Airlines.
‘Geigy’s design team wanted to avoid a too narrow idea of style, and so focused on the idea of “corporate diversity” as the basic principle of the brand’s corporate identity,’ says Janser. And this is evident in the exhibition’s varied displays, which include Gerstner’s Geigy Heute, a book featuring infographics, bold colours and unjustified text (hardly known-of at the time); Victor Vasarely’s Mitin poster (1947) with colourful tartan and typography; and Max Schmid’s packaging for the Pertofran antidepressant (1962), with a black and white ball-and-chain design that the user had to break to open the box.

Michael Stoll has gathered together the largest European collection of 20th century infographics. He deplores the lack of precision in contemporary work.
Benjamin Bollmann
March 15, 2012

The old statistical atlases, military manuals and user’s guides, with their cloth covers and yellowed pages, emit a distinctive musty smell, bringing to mind the atmosphere of a big library. Yet venturing into these works, the reader discovers an astonishing sight: pages of maps, schematic drawings, and diagrams in vivid color, offering a unique overview of infographics production since the turn of the 20th century.

Michael Stoll, professor of media theory and infographics at the University of Augsburg in Germany, built his collection from pieces found on the Internet and flea markets. He has collected nearly five hundred works, making him one of the foremost infographics collectors in the world, alongside Americans Richard Saul Wurman, founder of the TED conference, and David Rumsey, an expert in geographical maps. Stoll is former president of the jury of Malofiej, the primary international infographics competition, and a consultant with major media groups.

How do you explain the growing presence of infographics in the media?
In our culture, the social status of a person depends on the depth and breadth of his or her knowledge. Someone who develops a quick method for learning things will have a better chance of success. Infographics are a quick and easy way to transmit knowledge, which is what the media is promising to deliver. A diagram placed on a front page sends a strong signal to clients, showing its intention to explain the world in detail.
But there aren’t any newspapers putting infographics on the front page.
Well, that’s why the media is having such a hard time.
In what other areas will infographics still continue to develop?
The biggest potential is in specialized publications, textbooks – an often underestimated market – and in brochures and websites presenting political and democratic issues. Another area is in change management in companies, where infographics can be an ideal internal communications tool. Today, companies must constantly reinvent themselves and adapt to market realities. To succeed at this, they must keep their employees informed. Firms like Sypartners in New York specialize in this area, and they primarily use visual methods.
Today we’re seeing lots of infographics that visualize enormous data sets. The result is often visually impressive, but difficult, if not impossible, to understand.
Data visualization is in an experimental phase. The current situation can be compared with graphic design in the 1980s, with the spread of computers and the first desktop publishing softwares. At the time, everyone was doing graphic design without necessarily knowing the basic principles. In data visualization, we’re seeing a similar phenomenon, with the advent of new softwares and dedicated computer languages.
Raw visualization – without much pre-selection – is dangerous in the sense that it gives more visual weight to large quantities than it does to small ones. Yet the information with the greatest absolute value is not necessarily the most interesting or that which should be emphasized. Good journalists know this well: the best stories to tell are not found on main street but in the back alleys.
What lessons can we learn from your collection?
First, that the history of infographics is much older than one might think. This discipline wasn’t born with the advent of computers. It also wasn’t invented by the newspaper USA Today in the 1980s and 1990s, like some people claim. Infographics began to play a role as soon as printing presses were used to print books. Its evolution is rich and varied.
What always fascinates me is the care and exactitude with which graphic designers worked back then, in spite of a lack of appropriate technologies. Producing those graphics involved a considerable amount of work that had to be done by hand, preceded by a painstaking preparatory phase. That resulted in a high degree of precision, which we no longer find in contemporary work – something I find disappointing.
What do you mean by precision?
Precision in infographics involves three factors: the source of the data, their analysis, and their visual representation. The source must be reliable and the data correctly processed. The choice of diagram and the way in which it’s used must follow clear rules that are anything but random. Typically, some graphic designers go wrong when they use circles to visualize and compare numbers. They make the radii of the circles correspond to quantities, rather than the surfaces, which they should do in order to respect visual proportions.
And don’t forget that the reader cannot verify the accuracy of the data. On the other hand, the reader can quickly judge the precision of the visual representation, which itself reflects the overall quality of the infographic.
Do you know the ideal way to create an infographic?
In the media, management plays a key role. Infographists must be included as full members of the editorial staff, at the same level as journalists. An infographist is just a visual journalist. But the media often look at infographists as service providers, upon whom the editors can call when they need a graphic. This model can’t work, because the infographists should handle the entire process, from choice of subject matter to the graphic representation, and including the research and analysis of data.
Isn’t this a bit idealistic? Few people have expertise that is this broad.
It’s difficult. The reason is simple: infographics is not yet considered as a discipline in itself. The very first academic programs appeared in the 1990s. Today there are still only about ten universities in the world that offer an exhaustive curriculum in this field.
What about a closer collaboration between journalists and infographists?
This configuration could work, but is complicated to put into practice. The issue isn’t just whether the two will work well together. A trained infographist can also recognize subjects that are better suited to a graphic, where a traditional journalist doesn’t see them at all. These are primarily abstract subjects that don’t necessarily involve visualizing numbers, but offer large explanatory potential, such as a cross-section view through a building. Some journalists don’t even know how to evaluate the quality of graphics in their own publications. They’re much better at judging photos, whereas in principle they should be able to judge with the same rigor in both cases.
Did the famous “Swiss style” graphics developed in Switzerland in the 1950s have an influence on infographics?
There are many historical infographics produced in the Swiss tradition. I’m thinking for example of a brochure designed by Karl Gerstner in 1958 on the activities of the chemical company Geigy. It was a difficult piece to find and one of the most valuable that I possess. In it, one sees above all a concern with clarity: the shapes and colors are reduced to bare essentials; the design doesn’t interfere with the content, in fact, just the opposite. Although this style has been perpetuated up until now in graphic design, it was quickly lost in infographics. Nonetheless, its principles were completely in line with the needs of this kind of representation.
Diagrams whose shapes and colors are reduced to the essential

Documentaire 28: Bedrijfsboek in beeldRens Holslag en Jaap van Triest 
Show, don’t tell’  is learned by any commercial writer. The Lecturis Documentary aims to show with examples that this decree is also a recommendation for prefering photographs above texts.
This publication contains a personal collection which visually supports ​​a categorical treatment of business books and which shows the special role of photography in this book genre.
  • Author(s):Rens Holslag en Jaap van Triest
  • Pages:48
  • Size:210 x 297 mm
  • Edition:gehecht
  • ISBN:9789070108632
  • Year:2011
  • Design:Jaap van Triest









vrijdag 8 maart 2013

The New Nation of Indonesia february 13 1950 Life Magazine Henri Cartier-Bresson Magnum Photography


... Henri Cartier-Bresson came upon a girl standing quietly in a shady spot, resting near a bicycle repair shop in the shopping district of Jogjakarta. He was impressed by the classic Javanese beauty of her calmly exotic, heart- shaped face...

Between October-December 1949 Henri Cartier Bresson travelled extensively throughout Indonesia, celebrating it's new found independence from the Netherlands. HCB photographed the new President Soekarno and his family. The majority of the photo-essay is dedicated to the lives of the people of Sumatra and Java, to their ancient traditions and culture.
Of the 34 HCB images Life published, 10 were in colour, and Life also used a HCB portrait on the cover.



See also 

Indonesie 1945 - 1949 Mol Poll Oorthuys Presser Fotografie 


Legendary dancer Retna, Cartier-Bresson's Indonesian influence
Kunang Helmi-Picard, Contributor, Paris
As an Indonesian student in the 1970s, I was first struck by the poetry conveyed by a Henri Cartier-Bresson print in London. Years later, in 1990, when I was asked by Tempo magazine to interview the great photographer in Paris, I tried to imagine what the man behind the photos would be like in person.
The interview, which was very difficult to arrange, took place in his studio in central Paris, home to him and his first wife. Henri Cartier-Bresson was more interested in drawing and painting rather than photography. The first impression was of piercing blue eyes behind round glasses, matching blue scarf, a slim figure and a way of discretely blending into his surroundings.
At 82, he was reputed to be very shy, yet he was clearly a sharp observer. He was unfailingly courteous, but also extremely critical and prone to defending his ideas vigorously. In short, he was (and continues to be at 93 today) a youthful and riveting personality.
Hardly anyone, apart from his fellow Magnum agency members, had ever taken his photo, or dared to. Broaching the subject of his first marriage to an Indonesian dancer and poet, as well as an exciting period of history 40 years ago, proved to be a delicate task.
Our readers were interested in what the consummate photographer remembered of the Zaman Revolusi (Revolutionary Era). The habitual Cartier-Bresson response was: ""I have no memory. The contact prints are my memory.""
Fortunately when viewing the contact prints, he did indeed recollect many details, including numerous anecdotes betraying a deep sympathy for Indonesians, as well as a wonderful sense of humor.
At a second meeting, when I asked him how he took photos because young Indonesian photographers would naturally want to follow his instructions, he was understandably impatient in his response.
As he gestured in a Parisian cafe near the Tuileries Gardens, he conveyed an unforgettable impression of fleeting, rhythmic movement. A seemingly effortless dance in pursuit of light and dark, magically transformed into countless patterns of myriad gray tones between black and white.
Suddenly he turned again to me and exclaimed: ""But why write about me, you should write about Retna! She was with me in Indonesia at the time.""
I did not know that she had recently passed away in France at the age of 84. After her death, Cartier-Bresson (they divorced in 1965) and his second wife, Martine Franck, herself an excellent photographer, published a short bilingual choice of Retna's poems titled Our festive shadows.
Thus began the passionate adventure of tracing the life of Retna Cartier-Bresson. Her career as a dancer in Europe was interrupted by World War II, but she continued to dance after the war when she accompanied the photographer to America and the newly awakened nations of Asia. Despite her profession, she was a discrete lady whom one can sometimes perceive in the background of his photos.
She also possessed a firm character, was as equally as observant as her husband, an Ibu as one would say in Indonesia, often soberly dressed in a darkkain kebaya.
Her story is intertwined with that of 20th century Indonesia. It was a century that witnessed the birth of Bung Karno in June 1901, preceding that of Carolina Jeanne de Souza -- later to be called Retna -- at Meester Cornelius (now the Jatinegara area), the ""Portuguese"" suburb of Batavia, on May 17, 1904.
Many born at the same time were the future leaders of Indonesia's elite whom Ratna was to meet while she traveled the world with Henri Cartier-Bresson, as many perhaps as the future leaders of French cultural and political circles whom she met while living in France.
Although mainly of Javanese origin, Retna was an Indo-European, and was a lively personality who mastered several languages. Her friends called her ""Eli"", short for Carolina. She attended school in Rembang, Central Java, and Surabaya, following her mother and step-father, a wealthy customs officer.
Endowed with an independent spirit, Ratna was already interested in theater and danced when young. After a brief marriage in 1932 to Willem L. Berretty, the editor of the Sukabumi Post, she continued to perfect various dance techniques.
She then left the East Indies in 1935 as the assistant of the entrepreneur Keuzenkamp and made her way to Paris. This petite and agile silhouette, with a pretty round face and lively dark eyes, made her appearance on the cosmopolitan Parisian scene of Montparnasse in 1936, a Javanese dancer destined to become a true Parisienne.
Once in Paris, she took lessons in Indian dance and met the young photographer Cartier-Bresson. Ignoring the displeasure of his family, they were married in 1937. Then they immediately left for Spain where Cartier-Bresson made a documentary film for the Republicans.
Upon returning to the French capital, she met the famous Indian dancer Ram Gopal. While together with him and her husband in India, the renowned teacher Ravunni Menon taught her the lasya style, appropriate for feminine roles in Kathakali dance. By now, also known by her stage name ""Retna Mohini"", she was according to Gopal, an extraordinarily flexible dancer, due to her training in Javanese dance and was consequently perfectly suited to his dance group.
She danced at the Salle Pleyel and the Archives de la Danse in Paris. The poet Jean Cocteau was so overcome by her talent that he kneeled down before her in homage. She was also acclaimed at the Delphi Theatre in London, which resulted in an enthusiastic article by the famous dance critic Beryl de Zoete. Retna was the Javanese dance partner of Sumitro Djojohadikusumo when the two contributed to fund-raising appeals for Republican Spain by Andre Malraux before the war.
During the war she found refuge with a family of farmers near Chambord. Once the war was over, she accompanied her husband in his photographic jaunts throughout the countries of Asia that were freeing themselves from colonial bonds. It is during this period that most of the photos in the coming Jakarta exhibition of Cartier-Bresson's works were taken. Although Retna was soon to depart yet once more, she was back in Asia after 14 eventful years in Europe.
The photo exhibition Indonesie, 1949 of works by Henri Cartier-Bresson opens at the National Archives building on Tuesday.
See also the photo-essay Asia journey ...